A Diamond of a Design

Amanda Hope of Benchmark Communications, organisers of Design North East, talks to two North East jewellery designers about one of Britain's oldest crafts.

Be it a sign of love or friendship, or a fashion accessory to finish off the look, jewellery design seems an intimate part of our image for both men and women. To some people, a piece of jewellery can be very sentimental, but it can also have symbolic meaning. Indian jewellery, for example, has for centuries used motifs of animals and birds, the favourite being that of a serpent which symbolises eternity of time, courage and speed. Egyptians used symbols such as the Eye of Horus/Ra to ward off evil spirits and protect themselves from danger. In Olde England, jewellery represented wealth and custom made jewellery was the reserve of the very well-to-do. Jewellery traditionally was made by the most gifted craftsmen and designers, such was the regard and demand for it. Often small teams or even individuals would dedicate their lives to creating better and more elaborate pieces. It's nice to know that that tradition is still a part of our lives. However, today people realise that unique jewellery does not have to cost the earth and is actually at their fingertips.

Tony and Jo Hope of Leif Design in Rothbury, have been in the jewellery design business for over 25 years. As well as offering the Leif traditional range to clients, they carry out commission work with a team of master craftsmen. Tony and Jo find that their inspiration comes from natural forms and clean lines, as well as the visions of the particular person they are designing for. "It is essential to get some ideas from the client before embarking on the journey. A lot of our clients come to us with an idea, but think that their options are limited and they will have to compromise when it comes to designing a piece of jewellery. We spend time sitting down with the client and getting inside their head, so to speak, before pulling in aspects from our own experience to create a piece of original jewellery," explains Tony.

It is difficult to imagine how you go about taking a blank canvas and elaborating it so that the client can actually visualise their piece of jewellery. During the initial consultation, Tony sits down with the client and throws ideas at them, while Jo scribbles away on her drawing pad. To take the design further, a more detailed drawing is produced in full colour and then, as it is often hard for the client to envisage, Tony uses a method which dates back to Egyptians times, to create a wax model for the client.

According to Tony, North East designers are increasingly gaining national recognition. Tony and Jo regularly attend trade shows and enter design competitions, and were awarded runners-up place in the coveted UK Jewellery Awards last year. Their reputation has led to clients travelling up from London to work with the husband and wife partnership.

Susannah Aynsley, a jewellery designer based in Washington Arts Centre, finds inspiration whilst in her workshop, from researching the jewellery trends at the time, as well as keeping an eye on the fashion world and what the stars are wearing. She also finds that taking walks around the North East countryside provides inspiration for innovative ideas based on nature and the environment. This ever-changing face of design influences Susannah to re-invent her range, at frequent periods throughout the year.

"Times are changing and rather than the majority of jewellery being bought by men for women, women are now earning more money and are able to buy jewellery for themselves, as well as having pieces designed to emphasise their individuality," explains Susannah. "You don't have to be famous with a hefty bank balance to afford designer jewellery. People are often surprised by how reasonable personal jewellery is." One of her most popular ranges is wedding accessories where couples can design matching wedding bands. Grooms also seek designs for cuff links and tie-pins which incorporate the colours and patterns of the bride's dress, bouquet and her bridesmaids' dresses.

So maybe this is a sign of the times that although traditionally jewellery is favoured by women, men are growing increasingly interested in sporting a piece of designer jewellery. Take David Beckham who was recently snapped wearing a pair of £20,000 gold and diamond studded ear-rings and Craig David who treated himself to a platinum and diamond medallion. Diamonds are a girl's best friend, I think these guys may disagree!

Contact Details

Tony and Jo Hope, Leif Design, Rothbury - Tel: 01669 621 162
www.leif-design.co.uk

Susannah Aynsley, Washington Arts Centre - Tel: 0191 419 1494

History of Jewellery

Roman Jewellery was made from a wide range of materials, from gold to bronze, from emeralds to bone and was often worn as a talisman to ward off the Evil Eye. Some of the most common Roman finds in the North East are brooches. They weren't just for decoration, they secured clothing and they were similar in their securing technique to safety pins. Rings were worn by men and women and some had carved stones, which were used with melted wax to seal documents. Hair pins were used to secure women's hair and were both decorative and functional. The length of hair pins changed over time with the changes in hairstyle fashion. Examples of Roman Jewellery can be found at Corbridge and Segedunum Roman Sites as well as the Museum of Antiquities at University of Newcastle, where exact replicas are also available to buy.

The Aemilia Finger Ring was found at Corbridge in 1840 and is thought to have been a love token or betrothal gift. The Aemilia Ring and many other interesting artefacts can be found on display at The Museum of Antiquities.

Interesting Facts

• A new mineral, discovered in Russia, has been named Dianite, after Princess Diana, and it will eventually be polished and mounted in jewellery.
  
  
• Wearing Gold Jewellery can alleviate Rheumatoid Arthritis.
  
  
  
• Diamond Thieves and Smugglers used homing pigeons to smuggle rough diamonds out of mining areas.

Quote

"How all too high we hold that noise which men call fame, that dross which men call gold."

Rudyard Kipling, Non nobis Domine

Education

A designer needs to be patient and have an eye for detail, as well as nimble fingers! If you would like to study jewellery design full time, the University of Northumbria offers a 3D Design course. The course runs for three years and on completion, you will be accredited with a BA (Hons) in Design. The first year of the course, concentrates on the basic elements of design and 3D drawing and in the second year of study, you can decide whether to specialise in Furniture or Jewellery. The University is the only provider of the 3D Design course in the region and places are very sought after. If you would like further information on the course, contact Trevor Duncan at the School of Design on 0191 227 3347.

If jewellery design is something that you are interested in taking up as a hobby, Susannah Aynsley runs the following evening classes:-

• Gosforth High School - Tel: 284 1867 - contact Gosforth Community Education.
  Enrolment for September this year commences 23rd June.
  Beginners and Intermediate classes take place one evening a week for 25 weeks.
  
  
• City of Sunderland College - contact the Course Enrolment Department - direct number - 511 6060. Enrolment for September commences 13th August.
  Beginners classes run for 10 weeks.

There are also evening classes held at:-

• Tynemouth College - 0191 290 0700. Enrolment is taking place now. Beginners classes run for 10 weeks.
  
  
• Queen Elizabeth High School - contact Queen Elizabeth Adult Education - 01434 610 321. Enrolment commences January for Jan-July course.
  

Top of Page

This document is reproduced with he kind permission of The Journal and Benchmark Communications.